Re: bridge deck


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Posted by Gene Bernstein (67.153.121.195) on 10:19:32 06/10/05

In Reply to: Re: front deck spongy posted by ted

Ted:

Which "ribs" are you referring to? The egg-carton or waffle type are styrofoam encassed in fiberglass and can be accessed by removing the interior headliner and the interior plywood sheets. You will probably see where they have cracked in the corners. Determine the original height by measuring the fore and aft as well as port and starboard edges. Using a pole jack with appropriate load dispersing support, jack up the overhead until the cracks close. Measure that height and remove the jack. After sanding the areas around the cracks, using epoxy resin and glass matt, coat the cracks and reinstall the jack until the resin dries. I put on two layers and had to use a couple of jacks. Go overboard on the size of the patch.

My problem was evident as the interior height of the headliner was lower in the center of the salon than on the edges.

When I started getting water through the headliner after a heavy rain, I knew that I had penetration through the helm and companion seat screw holes. Since there also appeared to be some soft spots in the bridge deck, I cut is out. Starting in the center, I removed the thin glass sheeting that exposed the thin plywood and ribs. Actually, the plywood in most areras was saturated and the fiberglass just pulled right off. Within 15" or so of the edges, no wood is used. Apparently the plywood and ribs are used for a camber as the sold glass underneath is flat from beam to beam. These ribs are glass encassed wood about 1" wide with a high center and cambered at the ends. Where water had penetrated, I simply chiseled out the wet and/or rotted wood and scarfed in replacement pieces. Then glass over the new wood. New plywood with recessed screws over the ribs and then three layers of resin and glass. I mixed a white pigment in the last layer of resin and then covered with sand-grit, latex exterior paint.

Gene



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